Window-Cut

Window-Cut

v. To (carefully!) cut a rectangular, window-like hole in one side of a CARDBOARD CASE, and thereby allow the PRODUCT to be seen and even withdrawn, e.g., from a DISPLAY of STACKED CASES. —n. The hole made by so cutting a CASE: “Window-cut these to match the display.” See also BASE-CUT, BOX CUTTER, H-CUT, LIFT-CUT, PEEK-CUT, SHARK-CUT, STACK-CUT, TAPE-CUT, TOP-CUT, TRAY-CUT, X-CUT.

NOTE: Cut too deep and you've got STORE DAMAGE—bad, and potentially messy. Three very important things to remember here:

1. Use only a sharp, new blade, so edges are clean and nice.
2. Use only a standard-issue BOX CUTTER with the blade set to proper, shallow cutting depth
3. Before cutting, tip the CASE on its side, so the contents settle down and away from your cut! The idea is so important, it's worth repeating...

TIP: A Cut Above. Making a TRAY- or WINDOW-CUT? Whenever possible, turn the CASE on its side so you're cutting down from above. This allows the contents to settle away from the CUTTER blade, so you're less likely to damage anything inside.

Depending on CASE size, the typical Window Cut essentially removes the entire front side of the CASE except for a small, one- or two-inch strip along the bottom edge. Cut straight and true, and happy are you!

If you Window-Cut the CASE'S back by mistake, just take out the PRODUCT and reinsert it LABEL-FORWARD. Don't weaken the CASE by also cutting the opposite side. If you're making tall STACKS, also consider using a little of the CARDBOARD you cut out to make cross-ties between STACKS for additional stability.

On a STACK of Window Cut CASES in a FAST-WALL or EVZ DISPLAY, it's customary to also make an additional TOP-CUT on the topmost CASE in each STACK, so that both the top and front of the CASE are open. A final bit of finesse is to “ease the corners” of such topmost CASES by taking a sizable diagonal slice off the right angle on the two upper-, front-most corners.