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Showing posts with label ~i:v.. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ~i:v.. Show all posts

Walk

Walk

v. To move something heavy or awkward by alternately lifting first one side, then the other, while advancing each side slightly in the direction you want it to go.

NOTE: Often done simply to quickly adjust the position of the top one or two PALLETS atop a tall STACK.

Otherwise, it's generally quicker, easier, safer and thus better to either use a JACK or HIGH-LIFT, or to get someone else to help you—even if you have to “borrow” them for a few minutes from another DEPARTMENT. However, if there's no other way...

Walk the Store

Walk the Store

v. To visit every AISLE and public area of the STORE, typically with a SHOPPING CART to collect RE-SHOPS and POP SHELLS, etc., and a clipboard and/or log book to make notes. A routine task of the STORE MANAGER or M.O.D.: “He's walking the store.”

Wall-Block

Wall-Block

v. To fill the HOLE improperly by STACKING PRODUCT HOLE-high in the front, but leaving a void behind such a false facade: “Arrgh! Who wall-blocked peanut butter!” —n. Any STACK of PRODUCT so arranged. Contrast BLOCK.

NOTE: Generally speaking, Wall-Blocking is A Very Bad Thing. Don't do it! It obscures the true state of the SHELF when it comes to tracking and ordering INVENTORY, and also gets in the way of whoever has to THROW to that HOLE next, because they have to waste time taking down the wall before they can fill the void behind. Give us a break!

Of course, if the ITEM'S profile fills the HOLE naturally, regular BLOCKING of, say, a cake mix, would always leave a void behind that single FACE. However, that's not the same as a true Wall Block, because in this instance, one gentle nudge is enough to collapse the void, leaving it easy to fill.

Wedge

Wedge

v. See LAY-IN: “Wedge it in.” See also GO, HIDE, JAM, MAKE IT GO.

Window-Cut

Window-Cut

v. To (carefully!) cut a rectangular, window-like hole in one side of a CARDBOARD CASE, and thereby allow the PRODUCT to be seen and even withdrawn, e.g., from a DISPLAY of STACKED CASES. —n. The hole made by so cutting a CASE: “Window-cut these to match the display.” See also BASE-CUT, BOX CUTTER, H-CUT, LIFT-CUT, PEEK-CUT, SHARK-CUT, STACK-CUT, TAPE-CUT, TOP-CUT, TRAY-CUT, X-CUT.

NOTE: Cut too deep and you've got STORE DAMAGE—bad, and potentially messy. Three very important things to remember here:
  1. Use only a sharp, new blade, so edges are clean and nice.
  2. Use only a standard-issue BOX CUTTER with the blade set to proper, shallow cutting depth
  3. Before cutting, tip the CASE on its side, so the contents settle down and away from your cut! The idea is so important, it's worth repeating...
TIP: A Cut Above. Making a TRAY- or WINDOW-CUT? Whenever possible, turn the CASE on its side so you're cutting down from above. This allows the contents to settle away from the CUTTER blade, so you're less likely to damage anything inside.

Depending on CASE size, the typical Window Cut essentially removes the entire front side of the CASE except for a small, one- or two-inch strip along the bottom edge. Cut straight and true, and happy are you!

If you Window-Cut the CASE'S back by mistake, just take out the PRODUCT and reinsert it LABEL-FORWARD. Don't weaken the CASE by also cutting the opposite side. If you're making tall STACKS, also consider using a little of the CARDBOARD you cut out to make cross-ties between STACKS for additional stability.

On a STACK of Window Cut CASES in a FAST-WALL or EVZ DISPLAY, it's customary to also make an additional TOP-CUT on the topmost CASE in each STACK, so that both the top and front of the CASE are open. A final bit of finesse is to “ease the corners” of such topmost CASES by taking a sizable diagonal slice off the right angle on the two upper-, front-most corners.

Work

Work

n. A job or task. —v. 1. To perform a job or task in exchange for money. 2. To put one or more ITEMS into their correct places in the STORE: “Work this pallet next.”

NOTE: Where do things go? When you're asked to Work something, here's the cascade sequence:
  1. THE SHELF, first and foremost. Ideally, you fill it if you have enough STOCK. Too much? Then, if it's just one or two extras, you may have to either JAM or HIDE the few extra ITEMS nearby. Otherwise, write the STORE CODES on any OFF-SALE CASES destined for BACK-STOCK.


  2. SALES DISPLAYS second, if there are any. But, first—check the date on the TAG to be sure they're not due to be KILLED. E.g., if it's going OFF-SALE today, don't add to the DISPLAY.

    DISPLAY possibilities include the FAST-WALL, EVZ, END-CAPS, 3-WAYS, WINGS, AISLE-STACKS, and even SHIPPERS. After that, it's the...


  3. BACK ROOM for any significant amount of leftover. For SPECIALS or ON-SALE ITEMS, a CASE or so goes on the appropriate SPECIALS RUNNER; large quantity gets STACKED OFF on the SALES WALL.

    Otherwise, if it's not ON SALE, but high TURNOVER, it may go to, e.g., the WATER PALLET(S) or the PAPER PALLET(S) to soon be worked again by another SHIFT.

    All other OFF-SALE ITEMS get put in the GUN (for which you previously got the appropriate STORE CODES from the SHELF TAGS out in the AISLE), and once CODES are on all CASES, go to the OVERSTOCK RUNNERS for modest quantities, OVERSTOCK PALLETS for larger quantities, and eventually into the RACKING for PALLETS of large quantities for which there's no immediate need.

Wrap

Wrap

v. To encircle a pallet's contents in several layers of heavy-duty plastic film, in order to stabilize it during transport: “Wrap those crates yet?” —n. The rolls of plastic film or the film itself used to Wrap such pallets: “Where's the wrap?” See STRETCH FILM.

NOTE: Also called SHRINK WRAP,” although not strictly accurate, because it doesn't actually shrink. It just clings tightly, same as the stuff you use in your kitchen, only more so.